Paddle, Play & Stay at the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore

“Break out the sea kayaks; it’s time to head out!” I called to my husband. After months of planning our annual nature getaway, the day was finally upon us. It was time to explore Wisconsin’s breathtaking Apostle Islands National Lakeshore. With stunningly clear water offering visibility of up to 100 feet below the surface, the national lakeshore seemed the ideal destination for two kayak lovers who had been longing for an adventure on the water. 

With 21 islands to explore, an array of natural attractions and wildlife, and unique activities that can’t be found elsewhere in the Midwest, the Apostle Islands were calling our name. A brief, 25-minute ferry ride from Bayfield to Madeline Island was all it took to be transported into a wildlife haven rich with varied natural landscapes, providing the perfect “island life” escape for two Midwesterners. 

Madeline Island is an idyllic location as a home base for exploring the islands. With its plethora of eateries, activities, bars and sights, it gives visitors the opportunity to sightsee at their leisure or recuperate between island-hopping. With the lush forestry and pristine beaches on our minds, we couldn’t reach the shores of the island fast enough.  

Once off the ferry in the Madeline Island town of La Pointe, it took only a few minutes to arrive at Big Bay State Park, known for its picturesque rugged red cliffs, impressive old growth hemlocks, sandy beaches and boardwalk. With our annual Wisconsin State Parks pass adhered to the car window, it was a breeze to enter the park, almost as if we had fast-lane passes for a theme park. A day fee for entry is also available, offering a convenient option for those without the annual pass. 

Our final landing spot — Barrier Beach — required a jaunt through a grassy field with our paddles, life jackets and sea kayaks in tow. As the sight of turquoise Lake Superior and beautiful red cliffs came into view, it was more than sufficient to revamp our energy and vigor as we completed our trek toward the shoreline. While we are regular kayakers, the unpredictability of Lake Superior led us to contact Adventure Vacations in La Pointe to book a half-day kayaking tour, which is recommended for those new to the sport or unfamiliar with the lake. While Adventure Vacations does provide all the needed gear for the tour, since we are most familiar with our own equipment — and it met the requirements for the excursion — we arranged to bring our own kayaks and meet up with the rest of the group at the launch point. 

Once on the water, we paddled southeast to the impressive sandstone cliffs, leaving our stress and worries behind as we soaked in the incredible park views along the way. Our guide was very knowledgeable, pointing out notable landmarks like the Porcupine Mountains in the distance, along with the nearby “Gnome’s Home” and “Turtle’s Head” rock formations. His stories about the area kept the excitement in the air as we began to approach the island’s sea caves.  

Bending our heads down and, at some points, laying down completely, like a game of water limbo, immersed us in a fun game of bobbing and weaving around the craggy ceilings of the sea caves. The caves were magnificent, exceeding our already high expectations, and our time on the water flew by as we gazed in wonder at the sights around us. 

As we returned to the shore, our room at the Lightkeeper’s Lodge, one of many lodging offerings associated with the Inn on Madeline Island, was calling to us. Situated on the beach with breathtaking sunset views, this centrally located accommodation offers six deluxe suites and two standard hotel rooms. We booked a deluxe suite, which featured welcoming amenities, including a whirlpool, fireplace and comfortable beds. For us, it was the cherry on top of the vacation sundae. 

Though we opted for a hotel room on this trip, the Inn on Madeline Island features an array of stays from rentable homes to tent cabins and pet-friendly offerings, ensuring a stay for every taste and nearly any budget. 

After a short stop at the hotel to shower and change, we were ready for dinner at Café Seiche, an adorable lakeside bistro with an ever-changing farm-to-table menu. Featuring fresh, seasonal ingredients from local farmers and fisherman, each bite of Café Seiche’s cuisine is a delicious exploration of the area’s wonderfully rich flavors. With the friendly service and a table perfectly situated to watch the sunset, an unforgettable meal was inevitable. The Almond Crusted Lake Superior Whitefish and the Grassfed Beef Sirloin left our bellies full and had our taste buds dancing all the way back to our rooms. 

A visit to Madeline Island is not complete without a stop at Tom’s Burned Down Café. It would be like traveling to Paris and skipping the Eiffel Tower. This locally owned bar provides a unique backstory, which includes a fire, a name change and a revamp with eclectic décor featuring license plates, thrift furniture witty signs and a tent covering. With its casual atmosphere, “island vibes,” live music offerings and top-tier margaritas, Tom’s was the perfect way to end the day. 

The following day, with our hiking boots laced up and cinnamon roll and coffee in hand from Mission Hill Coffee House, we returned to Big Bay State Park to view the local landscapes from a new perspective. We reviewed the available hiking trails, which began with a 1.5-mile trek and worked up in length from there. We selected the popular Beach Barrier Boardwalk, an out-and-back route spanning 3.5 miles along a wooden boardwalk. 

The hike features a diverse landscape, from white pines to lake and lagoon views, with various animals (including deer and birds) frequenting the areas near the trail. At the northern end of the trail, accessible via a long stairway, is Big Bay Town Park. This beach, lined with lush trees, is a paradise for swimmers, campers, bikers and kayakers.  

Happily exhausted from our well-spent weekend exploring Madeline Island, we reluctantly returned to the car, sad to say our goodbyes but happy for the amazing memories we were taking home with us. As we drove toward the ferry, we were already dreaming of our next visit to the crystal-clear waters of the Apostle Islands. With a rich history, exciting eateries and various natural wonders, we had found paradise just a few hours from home.