A Thrilling Ice Road Adventure to Madeline Island
Frozen Chequamegon Bay glittered in the morning sun before us as we looked from Bayfield across the ice to our destination two miles away, Madeline Island, the largest of the 22 Apostle Islands clustered just off Wisconsin’s far north Lake Superior coastline.
“There’s no bridge,” Scott pointed out. At 10 years old, nothing gets by him.
“We’re going to drive,” I told him. “In the winter, when the ferry boat can’t get through the ice, they clear off a temporary road and it’s OK to drive.”
By the time we were halfway across, he was grinning as he watched the other cars, pedestrians and cross-country skiers on the same journey.
“That guy is riding a bike!” Scott exclaimed at the sight.
Madeline Island is the only commercially developed Apostle Island, so even in the winter – when the summer population of 2,000 or so dwindles to 200 – it offers plenty of family fun.
Each February, visitors and locals gather nearby for Book Across the Bay, a 10-kilometer race event stretching across Chequamegon Bay, which is groomed for both classic-style and skate skiing. The event is held at night, and the course is lit by the stars above and up to 1,000 candles in ice luminaries that line the entire route.
Inspired by the Ice Road traffic, we decided to start at Big Bay State Park, where we donned our snowshoes and trekked between the park office and Point Picnic Area. The trails aren’t groomed in the winter, making for an authentic far-north experience.
After a rest and a snack, we set out on Bayview Trail, which traced the waterline behind a protective wall of hardy pines.
Laura, our 12-year-old blooming artist, found inspiration looking out across Lake Superior.
“I just want to sketch the rocks along the beach here and the way the lake ice creeps up between them.”
So, we waited as she worked, and Scott occupied himself skipping stones across the ice. My wife Amy and I exchanged a look. It was the kind of moment any parent would treasure.
Where to Warm Up and Refuel
Many of the island’s eateries close for the snowy season, so be sure to call ahead before dropping in. We ended up at a cozy retreat called the Beach Club, where we warmed up with their delicious house chili.
In the summer, La Pointe offers a truly diverse range of dining options, like the quirky Toms Burned-Down Café that features live music and hundreds of decorative signs. Café Seiche, meanwhile, offers dishes like blueberry peach salad and Lake Superior Whitefish, as well as lovingly crafted baked goods, all firmly anchored in the local farming community.
For more dining options open year-round, Bayfield is the perfect place to stop before or after your adventure. Grab coffee and pastries from Wonderstate Coffee or sandwiches from Mannypenny Bistro to take with you on your journey.
Other warm-weather destinations include the fascinating Madeline Island Museum and old Fort William, at the southern end of the island.
For us, the day ended with a trip back across the ice to Bayfield as the fallen sun set the western sky aglow with deep oranges, corals, magentas and almost other-worldly bottomless purples. At this latitude, Northern Lights are regular highlights. Joining them as we rolled across the ice was the broad sweep of the Milky Way, a winter trifecta of beauty.
Ready for more snow-covered adventures? Discover great places for winter hiking throughout Wisconsin.
