Take in the Scenic Vistas & Urban Delights in La Crosse

Mississippi River towns have such an obvious appeal — historic downtowns, pretty waterfront streets and cozy vibes in spades. But La Crosse, Wisconsin, goes beyond that. Well, above that, technically: Grandad Bluff, the city’s most iconic natural landmark, rises more than 600 feet above the Mississippi River Valley. The views from up here, especially come autumn, are impossible to forget.

So, naturally, when I grabbed two of my best friends for a La Crosse weekend, good ol’ Grandad Bluff had to be our first stop. Roughly five miles of trails zigzag up, down and over this Wisconsin wonder — a massive limestone crag that escaped the last ice age — with gorgeous woods showing off their array of fall colors the entire way. Personally speaking, I was grateful you can drive the mile-plus to the top and then wander the wooded bluffside from there. It’s a great spot for friends, families with kids and pets and their people. The 180-degree view (at least!) of the Mississippi River as it winds its way through Wisconsin, Iowa and Minnesota is as vast as it is beautiful. From up here, it’s clear why they call it the Driftless Region, and it’s not hard to imagine an ancient river delta melting among the ice.

After a few miles of hiking across the bluffside and working up an appetite, it was time to fuel back up. We were all craving Hmong’s Golden Egg Rolls, a local treasure serving up authentic Southeast Asian cuisine. This family-owned spot showcases the region’s Hmong community through soul-satisfying dishes. The egg rolls are so golden — crispy on the outside and packed with fresh vegetables and aromatic seasonings — they’ve achieved near-legendary status among locals and visitors alike. Each dish on the menu represents generations of family recipes, and we opted for a smorgasbord of egg rolls, spring rolls, pho, Hmong-style sausage and pad lad nad.

Bellies satisfied, we had a third stop to make: La Crosse Distilling Co. The purveyors of one of Wisconsin’s most iconic gins, it’s a can’t-miss stop for any friend getaway. We toured the facility — which makes everything from gin to rye to beer, the latter of which is kept separate due to brewing restrictions — and learned about how they focus on local farmers; renewable, geothermal energy; and sustainable efforts that support their field-to-glass philosophy.

But the tour wouldn’t be complete without sitting down to a few cocktails, naturally. We opted for recipes that featured butter-washed whiskey — the team spends hours crafting and cooling whiskey infused with butter — lemon-blueberry amaretto and jalapeno-cranberry infusions, all of which vanished pretty quickly from our glasses.

From there, we checked into the Charmant Hotel, just down the block. It’s a meticulously restored 1898 candy factory turned boutique hotel in the heart of La Crosse’s historic downtown, steps from the scenic, walkable riverfront. The building’s industrial-chic aesthetic preserves original architectural elements, like the fabulous wood floor, while modern luxury and thoughtful touches fill the guest rooms.

Though the lobby bar’s ambiance beckoned, we heard the rooftop’s season was winding down and had to snag a peek. The Charmant’s Rooftop Terrace is an aerial jewel in La Crosse’s social scene, where craft cocktails mix with panoramic views of the Mississippi River Valley. While the sunset painted the sky in brilliantly soft hues, I enjoyed a full-circle moment as I sipped a La Crosse FC, a campari-rhubarb-rosemary-basil delight featuring Fieldnotes vodka from La Crosse Distilling Co. My friends both ordered The Apiary, and I couldn’t resist asking for a taste. The delicate combination of elderflower, lime and honey was just right. And, of course, we caved to the tempura-battered cheese curds and goat cheese honey crostinis.

As we turned in for the night, we discovered a gift on each of our beds: a truffle from a Wisconsin-based chocolatier, a throwback to the hotel’s sweet roots as the FUNKE Candy Factory. A fitting end to an indulgent day.

The next morning, we decided to add one last La Crosse stop to our list: Historic Downtown La Crosse. With nearly 100 historic properties, this charming shopping and dining district is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Our destination was The Root Note. Their coffee menu seemed unusual enough that we couldn’t skip it — think spiced cranberry syrup with elderflower tonic, citrus tea and espresso — and our intuitions were correct. Three sweet and savory crepes, multiple wild espresso concoctions and many delicious moments later, we were geared up to get back on the road.

La Crosse is just over two hours from my home in Madison, but this riverside city feels a world apart. All of the sky-high views we experienced were great reminders that sophisticated entertainment, good eats and excellent outdoor adventure await around every corner of my home state. For me and my friends, this was an accessible escape where we could reconnect, all while discovering the unexpected pleasures of Wisconsin’s Driftless Region. From the heights of Grandad Bluff to the warmth of those golden egg rolls, every moment in La Crosse provided us with opportunities to create amazing autumn memories.